Thursday, March 24th, 2011

Corky Carroll

Surfs Up!  Icon Surfer Corky Carroll is Giving Away a Massage Chair

Human Touch® will provide its state-of-the-art HT-3300 WholeBody® massage chair to one lucky winner chosen by Corky Carroll this May.  That means a free massage dudes, everyday, in your house!

This social media contest is based on Corky’s idea: “Surfing etiquette,” to touch on the subject of how the surfing experience can be better. “It is my strong feeling that surfing is meant to be a happy and extremely fun experience and that too many surfers are forgetting that in today’s overcrowded surf zones” said Corky.

Here are the narly details for the contest:

1.     Log on to Facebook, hit the “Like” button on the Human Touch fan page: www.facebook.com/HTFeelBetter

2.     Then submit your entry in the Comments Box below on this page about how you think the surfing experience should be improved. Entries must be 400 words or less. We also encourage you to incorporate the following keywords: Human Touch massage chair, surfing experience, and feel better.

Corky will read all entries and decide on a winner.  The contest is open now and ends at midnight April 23.  The winner will be announced in Corky’s column with the Orange County Register on Sat, May 7.

Good luck!

Feel Better™ with Human Touch®!

Corky at Home with His Human Touch Chair. Corky likes to use his chair before he surfs to loosen up, and after to recover and relax.

36 comments so far

Add Your Comment
  1. Corky,

    While not a surfer, I discovered the HT chair because of your newspaper column. I can’t thank you enough!! I have severe spinal cord compression (C5) and herniated disc (L5) and this chair has really helped supplement my physical therapy.
    Take care and happy surfing!
    Bob S.

  2. Surfing must be fun, although I have really never tried it myself. I did ski for a while, back in the 1960’s up at Big Bear Mountain. Why do I want to enter this contest? Hey, I want to win the “Chairway to Heaven”! Duh! Well, actually, I just like to type on my Apple computer, but enough about me. I just would like for Corky Carroll to know that someone actually reads his column every Saturday. He is a great guy (Hey, did my nose just turn brown?) and he helped me get in touch with Dick Dale a few years ago. I didn’t surf, buy I did the “Surfers Stomp” at the Rendezvous Ballroom to the music of Dick Dale and the Deltones. Think Miserlou and “Let’s Go Tripping”
    Today I offer the suggestion that surfing needs to come of age and make money for the municipalities that have to pay lifeguards and beach cleaning machine operators in order to maintain our precious beaches for generations to come.
    By way of background, I will tell a short story about the history of skiing, more like what it was like to ski back in the day (before I skied) and by “in the day”, I mean back in the 1800’s.
    Hardy souls (Much like today’s Surfers) would shoulder their skis and boots and don Snowshoes and walk up to the top of their mountains and don their skis and ski downhill. Then they would go home. If they were real strong, they would walk up again and maybe again once more to ski down, but the less hardy would never even do this once.
    Then one day a man developed a thing called a “Ski Lift” and suddenly the once Insurmountable Mountain was available to the masses and money was generated all over the world as “Weaklings” could get to the top without any effort other than to buy a lift ticket.
    I guess by now you get the idea? Paddling out is such hard work. Simply put, if a ski lift could take people to the top of the mountain, then surely a “Surf lift” could take “Weaklings” beyond the breaking surf and set them onto a floating dock where they could then plunge into the surf with their board (that they carry with them) and wait for a nice wave. These “Surf Lifts” could be built all along the coast lines every hundred yards or so and each of these lifts would have a nearby rental concession for “Hodads” (Yes, that is what the surfers called me back in the day) like me to outfit ourselves with wetsuits, helmets, wax and oh, a surfboard too.
    An all day “Lift Ticket” would cost $20.00 (Hopefully, with a hefty senior discount I may try it once or twice myself) and several hundred of these tickets (With a non removable wristband) could be sold per lift area every day in the Summer months (for hodads) and maybe in the winter for the real surfers. This revenue could then be used for the “Save the Waves” Foundation and the “Surf Riders” too. (After the local municipalities gobble up most of the money, unfortunately.
    Corky, (and Corky) Corkies? If you do the math you can see that I should be worthy of one of your fine chairs (now my nose is surely browner) especially if this becomes a reality. A smart manufacturer of Chairways to Heaven should be able to build these lifts, and who knows? Maybe they could also be known as “Chairways to Heaven? I could write more, but less is more and besides I am heading to the mall to try out my new Massage Chair. Chow!
    I would stay home, but my cat just won’t get out of my “Barkalounger”. Bummer.
    Thank you. William Simmons 31 Pamela Way Coto De Caza California 92679..
    Tel: 1 – 949 – 459 – 5457 Fax: 1 – 949 – 459 – 5488

  3. I guess I wrote too much, so you can edit it to your format. (Actually by writing almost 800 words, maybe I should get 2 Chairs?

  4. As I sit in my Human Touch Massage Chair I ponder that the secret spots of my youth are gone. I would paddle out and with every stroke I would say a mantra of love and peace to the sea creatures below me and fellow surfer’s around me. I never took off on someones wave, knowing the endless flow of waves to come, I knew somehow, I would have my ride on a sea of bliss, thankful and humble to be able to have a surfing experience filled with such joy, even if it was for a short moment it always made me feel better. A smile and a helping hand to youth will be remembered, so I thank you Corky Carroll as I jump into this beautiful ocean of life…

  5. My back’s hurting and I can’t help my buds carry their boards and stuff to the sand to enjoy an awesome surfing experience. But that’s OK because I can be a good friend and do what Corky Carroll would do– get up early and fire up the computer to see where the sweet rides are breaking and call them with an update.

    My back’s hurting so much that I can’t sit in the water and BS with my buds about how lucky we are to be able to surf and enjoy our lives. But I can be a good friend and take some awesome pics from the beach.

    My back’s hurting so much that I can’t make an afternoon sandwich run, but I can give a couple of “non-locals” who have shown up to enjoy our swell excellent directions to the best eats in town!

    I love to surf and I enjoy making the beach and water a better place for EVERYONE. I can’t wait to get my Human Touch massage chair and enjoy the sweet onshore ride until my back feels better. But this chair is all mine. My buds will have to get their own sweet HT rides!

  6. Hello corky: I was thinking what a great marketing device it would be to have a business on the beach, that would sell time on the human touch chair for $$ for 15 minutes. I think it would help those with stiff muscles and also stretch muscles before strenuous paddling in and out of the water. We see surf board rentials along the beaches and i think having a chair that would help loosen up a surfers muscles would help prevent neck and back injuries greatly Also it would work great to help lifeguards use the chairs to also help them with muscle aches.

  7. i started surfing in 1960 and worked as a teen for Dewey Weber in Venice, Ca. Riding waves from Santa Barbara to Ensenada was what we lived for and worked to pay for. But after Vietnam and college in Colorado, I returned to California to a new breed of surfer. Each summer brought a younger and more aggressive, violent generation. I found myself surfing less and avoiding the good waves for lesser breaks and fewer “pinheads.” Now, at my age my Jacobs “Lance Carson” model from 1968 and I stand in the garage and wonder where we can go to surf in peace with some old guys.

  8. And if it is raining, I’d sit in my Human Touch Massage Chair, gently soften up those stiff muscles, feel better, and dream of days gone by and all the surf experiences I have had along the coast of California with all of my surfing buddies and my old surfing friend Corky Carroll.

  9. As I sit on my couch wishing I had a Human Touch Massage Chair, I ponder that the secret spots of my youth are gone. I would paddle out and with every stroke I would say a prayer of love and peace to the sea creatures below me and fellow surfers around me. I never took off on someone else’s wave knowing the endless flow of waves to come would give me a ride on a sea of bliss! Im thankful and humble to be able to have had many a surfing experience filled with happiness and joy. Surfing always makes me feel better. A smile and a helping hand to young people is never forgotten, so I thank you Corky Carroll for your inspiration and contribution to me and surfers everywhere as I jump back into this beautiful ocean of life!

  10. Surfing becomes part of your soul. As one grows older the memories of those perfect rides only get stronger. Mother nature’s womb exists in her wave’s tubes…and the experience is real heavy. From frolicking on playful waves to the serious drops of pipeline and sunset ..the experience always replays in you mind’s eye. Travel opens up new surfing worlds…and people over the globe have a common language…..surfing. Be it now the past or future there is always a wave for you…all of us. Keep surfing positive, the good vibrations are what we as surfers are riding…Mother natures vibes forever.

  11. How to improve the surfing the surfing experience? Imagine paddling out at Huntington Pier, and it is like the whole crowd is in a Human Touch massage chair set to “chill.” Heck, we could put this stuff in the drinking water, like fluoride. We could call it Corky Carroll’s Bitchin’ Elixir; I don’t know, I’m not really a marketing guy.

    Another idea I had would not only improve the surfing experience; it would heal global economies, bring peace to all nations, and in general, make the whole world feel better. …Oh, who am I kidding. Just respect each other, be nice, and have fun!

  12. I moved away from the water about 10 years ago and I miss it daily. I miss walking across the street with my board and surfing early in the morning on my not so busy part of the beach. You better believe I travel with a board when I vacation! However, I have also learned first hand how some surfers can ruin your surfing experience either by cutting you off or knocking you down on purpose. Thanks for the reminder Corky Carroll that surfing is about enjoying the water, the people around you, the sport and the experience! I have to admit there were days that I was beat up to shreds and it sure would have been nice to return home and have a Human Touch Massage Chair waiting on me to work on my sore muscles and help me to feel better!! Thanks!

  13. Thanks so much for your entry Melissa! Good luck.

  14. Thanks so much for your entry Chris! Great ideas, we can imagine crowds of people just chilling. Good luck!

  15. Hi Malcolm, this was very spiritual, a beautiful post. Thanks and good luck!

  16. “Kindergarten lessons apply to the line up,” we tell our 5 year old who identifies as a surfer. “Be kind, respectful, pleasant, use your manners, have fun learning, and remember: the best surfer is the one having the most fun.” He gets it, and when he’s tired of riding the whitewater, he’s quick to make friends on the beach, smiling and saying “hi” to everyone. It’s as if he knows that fellow patrons of the surfing experience are part of a lucky and inclusive group who all appreciate the truly fine things in life: sunny glassy days, dolphins in the water, the effect of a Human Touch Massage Chair, playful peaks, sandy toes, and tan lines. He’s a happy little guy, and people respond in kind. Like you, Corky Carroll, we believe surfing is a fun, happy activity- it always makes one feel better. We wish to promote this idea by instilling such values in our son, who just might be a leader in the next surfing generation because, regardless of his surfing prowess, he’ll be having so much fun!

  17. Hey Corky,

    There are 2 simple steps to enhancing the surf experience Kill ‘em with kindness and Pay it forward.

    First, Kill ‘em with kindness. If you get into an altercation, tell the dude, “Sorry, my fault. I kooked out”. True or not, this will diffuse the situation and it is a good example for the groms. Later, if the guy gets a good wave, tell him, “Great wave, you were ripping”.. Everyone likes a compliment, especially all the egos in the water.

    Second, Pay it forward, just like the movie. If you paddle out pissed off, chances are you will have a bad session. So, instead, go out and give a wave away . Root a guy into a wave. I go to Tavarua every year and we live by this mantra. Old or young, we all have a lot of fun and everyone is stoked. It is a pretty cool feeling to have a guy paddle back out and tell you,”that was the best wave of my life”. Karma

    So to practice what I preach, if I win the Human touchchair, Corky Carroll please give it to a surfer that really needs it. Maybe the next time he is in the water, he will give a wave to someone. When you announce the winner, I will be in Fiji doing the same.

    Peace,

    Bill Dice

  18. Surfing isn’t just a way of life for many who live near the ocean but it has become one of the most entertaining past times for those who have never tried it. Many of America’s indoor/ outdoor water parks are now incorporating surfing sessions and lessons to help those who may not of otherwise had the opportunity to give it a try. Children as young as 6 yrs old and adults well into their 50′s are giving it a try for the first time as others watch wishing they were relaxing in a Human Touch Chair like Corky Corroll before and after surfing to loosen up the body and relax his muscles.

    Beaches are crowding and the surfing experience isn’t what it used to be. Surfers should take notice to care about others and give everyone the experience they once had by showing respect and giving space to enjoy the water. Helping others with tips on how they can catch a wave, balance on a board, or improve their core to maintain strength when surfing can be a rewarding, enjoyable experience for all involved.

  19. Surfing is a direct reflection of the times, whether we like it or not. Kids are trying to pull of mute grabs, reverse donky kicks, flim flams, you name it. Not the same as it used to be for sure, but surfing is different. It gives us the opportunity to lead by example, while earning respect. When I’m out in a crowd with the youngsters around I truly enjoy being a part of the experience. I also see the time to be a potential role model as well. Not by pulling off monster punts or spraying water in someones face, but by other actions. Last week I made it a point to help some beginners out, regardless of their diving suits and no wax. People, especially kids, can’t be underestimated when it comes to being a good person. They just need someone to teach them that it is OK to be kind and in turn learn what real fun is all about! I in turn need a Human Touch massage chair so that my own children can see what a nice guy Corky Caroll is and learn that having good character pays off!!

  20. i dont have one but would love one, a friend of mine does and it is so comfy.

  21. With the Weight of the World Beneath You

    To surf is to feel alive. The vibrant waves swallowing and crashing with adventure. It isn’t for the faint of heart but for the risk taker looking to live this life to it’s fullest. To not give up even when knocked down is a lesson so many can learn from. When troubles come your way like a crashing wave, ride it out with the strength of a surfer. As beaches become more overcrowded the surfer’s paradise can suffer. As they taste the salt and feel the string of the waves there is a strong connection with the earth and nature. It is difficult when this connection becomes sidetracked with too many surfers. It may be a problem that is hard to solve but it means one thing. You are healthy, strong and you are out there. As so many sit in hospital beds or weak with sickness and disease., you have energy, life and enthusiasm. To be a surfer is to be blessed in this life. Blessed with courage, perseverance and bravery. The Human Touch Massage chair would help people like me and so many others feel better. Thank you Corky Carroll for this chance, you truly are a legend and a hero to so many!

  22. Your Wave

    In those days, when you turned off the highway and headed west toward Jalama you really didn’t know what kind of surfing experience you were in for. There was no internet surf forecast and the drive up from Santa Barbara really didn’t offer many clues. Summertime surf in Santa Barbara was generally flat, so surfers in need of a feel better wave fix made the hour drive north to Jalama. Jalama Beach wasn’t blocked by the Channel Islands. It almost always picked up a swell, but it also picked up the prevailing north wind and blew out early and often.

    The ritual, driving in, was to query the outgoing surfer traffic with a thumbs up or thumbs down gesture. You knew who the surfers were by the poor condition of their Volkswagen and the surf racks. There are of course few reasons to leave a surf spot that’s “going off”, but sometimes jobs, girlfriends and moms get in the way of a perfectly good surf session. So outgoing traffic, in and of itself, did not mean bad surf. In the great tradition that prevails to this day, surfers liked to mess with other surfers. So a thumbs down signal was as meaningless as thumbs up. The local vibe was so negative even Corky Carroll wouldn’t get a straight answer. I guess we did it just to pass the time.

    That day, as we crested the last rise and could finally see the swell, it was perfect- 6 foot and glassy. In the water, it was the usual greedy scramble for waves. I’ve never seen so many stressed out surfers in need of a Human Touch massage chair in my life. I wasn’t aggressive enough or good enough to get many waves; so I had to be content to watch the local wave master, Dave Smith, tear it up. A big set cleaned every one out leaving just Davey and me in position to catch the big left as it peaked. There it was, the wave of the day. I was just right of Davey, making it his wave; but I spun around anyway and that’s when he did the unthinkable, He eased up on his paddle and yelled to me, “your wave”. I still remember it as the best wave of my life. Surfing would be a lot more fun if “your wave” was heard more frequently in the water.

  23. Surfing can be fun and entainment. I googled to learn about the human touch massage chair. I am so interested to try it. So I had the chance to sit and relax in the human touch massage chair. It took more efforts to massage evenly on my tired muscles. Sigh kind of relief, I began to gain more energy to do physical work. Plus I had peace of mind and able to concentrate other things easily. I wish I would love to win it here.

  24. Hi Tom,

    Sorry for the confusion. We’ve updated the contest page with the 400 word count requirement.

    We look forward to receiving your entry!

    The Human Touch Team

  25. Everybody’s got their own idea on what could make surfing better. I have to say that I’m no different. Now while I wish I had some profound idea, maybe something that sounds like it was said by Ghandi or something, I don’t. To me the only thing I can think of that would make surfing better is if everybody just took a deep breath and chilled out. I know it sounds simple but I think it’s true. Since I’ve never been fortunate enough to live in a beach city no matter what spot I surfed I could never really be called a local. As most people know the locals can ruin your day if they feel you’re intruding. To me this never made sense. They’re preoccupied with ruining my day and I’m busy trying to ignore them. It takes the fun out of it. It’s the same in a crowded line-up. A guy cut in front of you and stole your wave, so what. People get mad about things like this. Sure it can get annoying but being mad isn’t going to make your day any better. When I go surfing I not only try to get the best waves that I can and ride to the best of my abilities but I also try to just forget about the world while I’m out there. My favorite spot to surf is Sunset Beach next to Bolsa Chica. The break might not be as good as it is a little further south but the atmosphere here can’t be beat. With free parking and no crowds this is the best place to forget about it all and go surf. Because the water isn’t overrun with people the wildlife tends to come around more too. There’s nothing better than having three or four dolphins swimming next to you between sets to brighten your day. That’s what surfing is all about. Getting away from it all and just enjoying yourself. If we could learn to just chill out a little more surfing can be more enjoyable for everybody.

  26. I’ve been thinking a lot about “How I can make the Surfing Experience Better.” Actually there have been strange ideas rattling around in my head for years.
    My surfing began at Sunset Cliffs, a reef break in San Diego. My first paddle out was dry hair. My first wave peeled cleanly for 50 yards. When I left Point Loma I wasn’t a great surfer, but I was greatly spoiled.
    Then reality struck. We moved to Coronado and the first big swell hit. Windows rattled in panes. A salty mist hung over the ocean. The conditions were perfect, but the wave was a two mile wall that stood up and exploded all at once. I needed a reef.
    As a Navy pilot based at Coronado, I got an idea. Why not eject out of the jet on final approach over the water? A submerged airplane would certainly form a nice reef in time.
    But there were issues. Like the ejection seat not working…or my crewmembers being upset about parachuting into the ocean…or the uproar from my skipper. I chickened out.
    Still my reef envy wouldn’t go away. After a tour in Hawaii (at a beach break) I now live in Seal Beach (at a beach break). How many times have I pulled into the Bolsa Chica parking lot on a swell to be greeted by big, blue, glassy…closeouts.
    Then on a desert trip I saw tons of cargo planes waiting to be turned into tin cans and razor blades. Why not put them on a barge and push them into the sea along the beach at Bolsa? Imagine the lefts and rights at every parking lot on even the biggest days. And when it gets flat we can dive the wrecks.
    My wife just read this and says there may be environmental issues. She also says enough from the pilot talking about airplanes under water.
    OK, just take down the southern section of the breakwater. Deposit the rocks off the beach to give me my reefs. And imagine our Long Beach brethren raving that the Peninsula was going off this morning.
    I know, probably too expensive.
    All right, I’ve got a whole different idea. Next time I see the man in the mirror while sunblocking my nose before paddling out, I’m putting a smile on his face. I’m going to savor the sand between my toes and even be stoked for the other guy’s wave.
    I might be surfing a reef-less beach break, but with the right attitude any session can be epic. I know that will make the surfing experience better. Try it with me.

  27. SURF ETIQUETTE OR THE LOST ART OF MUTUAL RESPECT

    My earliest memories of surfing are being pushed into waves at San Onofre which at the time was a private surf club. I was five years old and was off and running. My Dad ( My Hero) was the 13th surfer in California. He vividly remembers the Duke’s first visit to California. My Dad had two full time jobs, he was a Los Angeles county Bay Watch Lifeguard, and a Long Beach Fire Captain. He surfed and skied until he was 80 years old. He taught me that a true surfer not only surfed, but fished, spear fished, dove for lobster and abalone, could sail, row a dory, and paddle canoe. He also taught me that it was a must to know how to save people in the water. He would say things like ” If the modern day surfers leash broke they would have trouble swimming in. ” He taught me that the main rule in surfing was that the first surfer to catch the wave or the closest to the curl the wave was his and his alone! He would say if you want your own wave, then be the farthest out or have the deepest position. At the same time he taught me not to be a wave hog and to share the Ocean. I am truly appalled at the lack of etiquette in surfing today. My lifetime search for uncrowded waves with polite people in the lineup that play by the rules has led me to an incredible blessed journey. In the mid 70′s I lived in Mainland Mexico and enjoyed perfect uncrowded mexican surf. Then it got crowded. I then moved to Costa Rica before it became an over priced yuppie destination. Once that was history, I moved to Hanalei Kauai in1980. There I was married on the beach at tunnels and raised my two sons, Keoni and Makana. Living the dream of uncrowded Hawaiian perfection. My sons have become well rounded highly respected true water men. Unfortunately now the same sad thing that happened in Mexico and Costa Rica has happened in Hawaii. I am now living in Central America. I’ve found perfect uncrowded surf full of polite happy people. They are respectful and love the ocean.

    Aloha and Mahalo,
    Michael O’Rielly Rowan

    P. S. Corky I could really use that chair!!!!

  28. Hi Corky! Thank you for having this contest! We both love the ocean but have never surfed. (Guess riding a boogie board with my kids off Huntington Beach years ago does not count!) I am writing these words because at 82 my hubby’s muscles would really feel better using “The Human Touch Massage Chair”. And, I love to write poetry and dream about going to the ocean. Here goes!

    SURFING PRAYER

    I think that I will never crave
    Nothing more than a majestic wave ~
    That lifts me above the deep sea blue
    Glides safely home not banging you!

    The oceans are vast but BIG WAVES too few.
    Just what are we surf dudes gong to do?
    Not jamming it all into just one big race
    Hang loose, give each personal space!

    See a dude that can’t quite “start”?
    Share wise tips from my heart.
    Helping him to get a ride
    Makes me feel really great inside!

    Here we share blue sky, sand, and sea
    May I keep it pristine for you and me.
    It is a blessing to just be in it ~
    May I ALWAYS have “The Aloha Spirit”.

    Mahalo ~ Jayna Dinnyes 4 ~ 17 ~ 2011

  29. it looks like the best chair to sit and relax in ever. where in Vegas can I try one out? thx

  30. Hi Pat,

    Thank you for contacting us! We have chairs in a Relax the Back store located in Summerlin:
    596 RELAX THE BACK
    8975 W. CHARLESTON BLVD., STE. 160
    SUMMERLIN, NV 89117
    Tel.: 702-641-2225
    You can find other locations as well by using our dealer locator here: http://www.humantouch.com/purchase-massage-chairs.html

    Please let us know if you need any further help and be sure to “Like” us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/HTFeelBetter to receive news, wellness tips, and details about contests!

  31. Hump Day Greetings! Corky, may I add this quote to my entry (along with an “i” for my word “going”?) I just read it now and want to share it with you all. It’s from one of my favorite philosophers who died at a young age. I do not know if he was writing about surfing way back then ~ but it seems to fit for surfing and life in general. What do you think?

    “You must live in the present, launch yourself on every wave, find your eternity in each moment.” Henry David Thoreau

  32. Surfing etiquette is no different than any other aspect of etiquette. You are out at daybreak, the air is calm and it seems as if the whole ocean is yours. All of a sudden you look around and it appears that many others had the same idea. It is easy for a sense of territorial behavior to manifest in you. If you really think about it, a sense of unity and harmony is what it is supposed to be about in the surfing experience. To be of the same heart and mind in this past time and enjoy the bond of the ocean is rare. It should be the motivation of us all. To many the surf is an escape and a refuge. You never know what your fellow man is going through when he is not out there in his solace. Six months ago both my wife and my newborn daughter were in ICU units in La Jolla. I did not know if I was going to lose my whole world. I do not know what my fellow surfers are going through in life. I hope to always try to esteem others as better then myself. To have respect for others in their journey. We are out there doing what we enjoy and what brings our souls nourishment. The ocean brings healing, unity, peace. It is a place, a pool of sorts where we can leave all of our troubles behind and for a few minutes allow all of our worries to be washed away. We are all one in this world. Let us pursue love, peace and freedom. We are responsible for our own actions and responses to others, the attitude we portray to other surfers. Let us embrace each day we have been given, embrace the vastness of the ocean as well as one another. I would love to win the Human Touch Massage chair for my wife who has shown much strength and perseverance through such trails. I would love to see her feel better and I know winning this would be a dream come true for her.

  33. I’ve been surfing for 37 years and I’ve seen that there are two things that will help improve the surfing experience, and ironically, they are on opposite ends of the spectrum.

    First we should look to our future. As Corky Carroll knows, technological advances in board design, water safety, wave prediction, bathymetry, meteorology, the internet, and even wave machines have changed surfing for the better by instructing, inspiring and challenging surfers, both young and old. Surfers are continuously finding new surf locations and new ways of enjoying the surfing experience.

    Secondly, we should look to our collective past to improve the surfing experience. The ancient Karmic rule of “If you sow goodness, you will reap goodness” should be taught to all surfers, as well as the Golden Rule of doing unto others as you would have others do unto you. These truths focus us towards others and their well-being which ultimately makes surfing extremely enjoyable for us all.

    Like surfing, the Human Touch massage chair connects both of these opposite ends by combining technology and ancient knowledge to help us feel better and surf better. It is a highly technical piece of equipment that delivers an ageless healing technique to our sore muscles.

    We ultimately make surfing the meditative, enjoyable, fun sport and lifestyle that it is by remembering our past and looking to the future. The Human Touch massage chair helps to bring these two ends of the spectrum closer together for us surfers’ benefit.

  34. I feel as though too many people have lost perspective of what surfing is really about these days. What was once the very basic means of riding a crudely hewn log directly towards the shore has blown up into a multi-million dollar industry. As surfing has changed, so too have the reasons why people surf. This shift changed the connotation of surfing for the masses, and this resulted in people thinking differently about surfing. Rather than remaining underground, surfing has blossomed. Those who have achieved mastery of this pastime enjoy national prominence, and the idolization of many.
    Too many people these days begin surfing with the illusion that they will soon be hanging ten and getting barreled. Surfing is a labor of love, and one must love the labor one puts into it. If you dread your paddle-outs and the time spent floating while waiting for the next set, you must try a more land-oriented activity. Remember the beginning of anything is always the hardest part. Focus on the positives of surfing, there are many so it should be easy. Surfing is great exercise, it improves balance, posture, coordination, and very safe as long as you don’t mess with the locals. Even the fact that you as an individual have the opportunity to surf is cause for celebration. Many other people around the world are forced to live near flat, unrideable bodies of water.
    While out in the water, rather than focusing on some self-imposed goal for the day, or worrying about what the bunnies on the beach are thinking about your performance, enjoy your time. Remember that you paddled out there for yourself, not to fulfill someone else’s quota for the day, or as a favor. Surfing is something you do solely because you want to do it. This sport can be difficult at the beginning but those that persevere report the experience as exhilarating, euphoric, and maybe even gnarly.

    Thank you for this opportunity :)
    Riley Tanner

  35. Hi Corky,

    I’m a 31 year old surfer girl from Newport Beach. I’ve been fortunate and blessed to have surfed in many parts of the world including Fiji, Hawaii, Costa Rica, and the chilly waters in Ireland. I know I would have really enjoyed the Human Touch massage chair after the long surf sessions I had at these places.

    Ironically, having traveled the world, the time I needed the Human Touch massage chair to make me feel better was locally at Huntington Pier north side for a 1960’s surf reenactment for the Travel Channel. It was an epic surf day with a strong south swell and glassy conditions. The waves were pushing 8-10 feet, but were peaky as there was a west swell contribution. On one particular wave, I came off the lip, lost control of my board, hit my head on the left-side of my board and got slammed deep in the white water.

    Since the cameras were rolling, I kept going and charging. However, the next day, I could barely get out of bed. And there was no way I could raise my arms above my head. After getting evaluated and x-rayed, I discovered I had fractured my neck and torn the ligaments on the right side of my back. Since then, I’ve been through extensive physical therapy including acupuncture treatments. I still live with pain to this day.

    In looking back on that day in Huntington, I have no regrets with what happened. The camaraderie I remember with fellow surfers and the stoked feeling of sharing incredible waves with both new and old friends was incredible.

    That’s the point I want to make. It is the sharing of waves with others, and sharing them in the most emotional landscape in God’s creation is what the surfing experience is all about.

    I know it is easy to write sentences idealizing the surfing experience, when in reality there is an awful lot of attitude and aggression in the line-up. I would love to see more respect in and out of the water; respect for long boarders, short boarders, stand-up paddlers, and even boogie boarders. We all need to share and not drop in on each other. There should be less aggression and more ohana. We all need to remember to leave the attitude on the beach as we’ve entered our liquid church.

    See you in the water.

  36. Hi Corky, the minute I read your article about the contest for the Human Touch Massage Chair I knew I had to enter.

    Actually, I am not the surfer in the family, my husband Ross is. Ross got into surfing when we were first married in 1951 and had an apartment in Hermosa Beach. We lived on a sidewalk street, no cars, only houses facing each other with the sidewalk in the middle. Across the sidewalk from us lived the Doug Craig family, well known San Onofre-ites.

    In no time Doug talked Ross into trying surfing and of course he was hooked. San Onofre became our weekend jaunt, either Saturday or Sunday. Sometimes we splurged and stayed at the old Surf Motel in San Clemente so Ross could surf all weekend.

    Now ‘the Chair’, fast forward to 2011. Ross still surfs, mostly at Doheny with some old friends he fondly calls, ‘the Geezers’. They include Fred, Don, Dick and Evie, the 84 year old surfer chick, all long time San O surfers. Since retirement they have been meeting every Monday, Tuesday and Thursday to surf and shoot the breeze, since shooting the breeze is easier than shooting the curl these days. The breeze talk is mostly, “I woke up with arthritis in my knee, I don’t know I’ll be able to stand up on my board,” or “did you see that jerk on the TV news!” or “Can you believe Congress passed that bill!” or “I wish I had a ‘Chair-way to Heaven’ to sit in when I get home!”

    I am sure the wonderful Human Touch Massage Chair would feel super to some 81 year old bones after a day of surfing. I have even attached a plan to share with the Geezers. Fred could come over on Mondays, Evie could use it on Tuesdays, Don might like it on Wednesdays and Dick at 68 is still a kid, but Thursdays are his. Ross of course would have it every day. Although a non-surfer, I might put in a bid for weekend use.

    After all those Monday, Tuesday and Thursday mornings, I would really love to wait at home in that heavenly Human Touch Massage Chair. My bones are 81 years old too!